Ghosts – Human and Architectural

I have known my friend B for 32 years, and her husband M for 26 at least (yes M? Tampa??). In the intervening years, we have seen each other grow older and, hopefully, wiser. Despite time and distance, we have always been able to take up where we left off, for me a true and precious friendship that has endured years and different continents (am lucky to also count two other US friends, T&M, in exact same circumstances). Babies have materialised (stork?) and grown to sweet children and then beautiful, intelligent teenagers and, all the while, when we get together, the laughter has never stopped. Thus it was a bit of an honour to learn that oldest child suggested I meet him for lunch while I was in LA (he is a student here). Thus, in a rather garlic-y smelling Uber car, I journeyed over to downtown LA, which, from what I can make out, began as the heart of this incredibly sprawling city (or rather set of cities). Here is where some of the last vestiges of old LA can be found, the glorious early 20^th century US architecture, the fledgling ‘skyscrapers’ and gorgeous movie theatres of the 1920s. While LA’s City Hall and Public Library continue vital and busy, the sad remnants of what were edifices of the golden age of cinema litter either side of Broadway. The Roxie, the Cameo, the Arcade, ghosts of their former, sparkling selves, frozen between the glamorous, frenetic activity of the past and complete demolition.  

In some ways, downtown LA is like a strange, futuristic movie set, where well-heeled business folks jostle with legions of homeless people. It’s at once both alarming and bewildering. Maybe I’ve been out of the city for too long, but each new shabby, grubby, cart-dragging, slightly crazed soul I encountered made me feel useless. Paris is the only comparison I can think of. The reasons and circumstances that have led these separated human beings to their current lives are, am sure, many and varied and, of course, some are frightening in their mental ill-health, but it’s as if they have become invisible, so many ghosts shambling along, unseen by those who stroll or rush hither and yon, each with a story to tell, if only someone had the guts to stop and listen. Yes, I know, wistful and romantic nonsense, and I for one would certainly shy away from the very idea, but how can THIS many people disappear in plain sight? 

So, after lunch, I found myself strolling the streets with C, an intelligent young man some thirty years my junior, and it struck me that I stand halfway between him and my lovely newfound friend A, thirty years my senior. In the end, doesn’t it really all mean nothing? C cleverly steered us towards the Walt Disney Concert Hall, before we bade each other farewell until the next time I/Rob and I return, and I climbed the concrete slopes to what is a beautiful construction of Frank Gehry-designed, stainless steel curves and angles and ships’ bow-like trailing edges, offering fantastic viewing platforms overlooking LA City Hall. After a while I wandered back in the general direction I had come, and fell upon a beautiful set of steps overlooking the LA Public Library, more juxtaposition of old and new. Finally, an Uber car home, piloted by a lovely young woman who grew up in, and eventually shunned, South Central LA, and a quick detour to Ralphs (no Whitney, no discount!) before I returned to base. 

Tomorrow, A will collect me and we shall drive over to Griffith Park for a wander (we joked about hiring dogs for the day – if only!). Only a few days left of my LA odyssey, and most will be busy in one way or another – Saturday is mine for the taking, but Sunday, Monday and Tuesday offer a mix of catching up with an old friend, more meetings/interviews with actresses and another chance to meet new friends. Fingers crossed I will get to see A again on Wednesday morning before commencing the long journey home.  

“The untold want by life and land ne’er granted. Now, voyager, sail thou forth, to seek and find”. Walt Whitman, it seems, knew a thing or two!